Ramat HaGolan and Druze

The past two days have been spent on a very interesting trip with my program. We went up north to the Senir Stream to hike near Mt. Hermon, the tallest mountain in Israel which is shared with Syria and Lebanon. It was beautiful hiking through the lush green of the north after having spent so much time in the desert with Gadna and my trip to Eilat. It was still very hot but it was beautifully refreshing. We also visited the Hula Valley Nature Reserve which is in the valley adjacent to the Golani mountains of the Golan Heights. This Nature Reserve is well known as a common stopping place for the birds that migrate from Europe to Africa in the winter and is filled with many of them during the migratory season. Unfortunately, when we were there we saw but a few birds in the beautiful landscape although we did enjoy the sunflower seeds of the sunflowers that were growing and the trees with delicious wild berries.

That night we arrived at a Druze village called Peki'in, where we were staying the night. In all honestly, Jews and Christians live in this village as well but it is predominanty Druze. In fact, the oldest dated synogogue is in this village and is dated to be 2,000 years old from the second temple period. We had tea at a beautiful place (see the pictures) and then dinner at a family's home. This family owns a restaurant in the town but since we were such a large group they closed their restaurant and had it on the roof of their home, where their family has lived for over 100 years. The family in the village itself for far longer. We watched the most beautiful sunset and the rising of the moon over the mountains (see the pictures) while we ate the most delicious meal of stuffed grape leaves, kabobs, salads and falafel that I have had yet since being here. Afterwards, we sat and talked to the family about the family, Druze culture and lifestyle. We learned that Druze is a unitarian monotheistic reformation of Islam that is very small and peaceful. They reside almost wholely in the mountains of Israel, Syria and Lebanon where they used to have to hide to escape persecution and struggle to maintain the Druze life, which is also why they were forced to keep the religion a secret for many, many years. They dress and eat and pray much like Muslims but it is forbidden to consume drugs or alcohol and no one can convert to be Druze and one cannot marry a non-Druze and still be considered Druze. It is a small, strong group that considers itself more of a social group or a culture than a religion, we were told by this family.

Druze live with the Jews and Christians in the town beautifully and, in fact, helped to hide Jews in the caves of the mountains when they were trying to escape persecution from the Romans. Today, there are only 3 Jewish families who maintain the synagogue and a small number of Christians (I am unsure of the number) but they live comfortably and peacefully together, we were told and observed. Druze signed, upon creation of the IDF, that they will serve just as any Israeli does even if it means that they may have to fight against other Druze in Syria and Lebanon. It is unlike the Bedouins, who signed that they had the option to fight for Israel or not when they were of that age.

The next day we took a walk around the town, which the 100 shekel bill is designed after (the buildings, tree and pool of water you see on the bill are from this town) and went to a soap factory that has a secret formula generations old in a Druze family of Peki'in. Then we went and saw the tomb of a Rabbi in Tiberias who was well known for his contribution to the Talmud. People were praying devoutly to this Rabbi as if he held a secret to life, and it was strange to me that I did not feel the same power I have at other places of Jewish worship and history. However, I do commend those that are able to do so by giving so freely of their faith and believing so devoutly.

We ended the trip in Jerusalem where Lori's son was finishing his 40 kilometer hike to get his beret, meaning he finished his training to be in the Paratroopers Unit. It was very emotional and beautiful to see these men accomplish something they have worked so hard for, and to make it into such an elite unit of the army. For Israelis, this is a real rite of passage to finish this hike, which all the units have to do but in different places in the country to get their beret. The berets are different colors for the different units and until you finish this hike you must wear a gray one, which means that you are still in training, so receiving the colored beret is a big deal. Lori cried and her family and in-laws, except the twin of the son receiving the beret because he is in a different elite unit and could not get out of the army in time, came to see the ceremony. There are awards for outstanding soldier, which he was considered for, but he was honored when his Officer took his beret off his head and gave it to him rather than give him a new one. It is a great honor to have your officer do this for you and Lori cried when it happened...oh moms! It was really fascinating to see this, though, because I have heard about it from friends and to see it just helps me understand just a bit more about the culture of the army and the life of the army, as well as that of Israel in general. One of the friends of Lori's son is what they call a "lonely solider" meaning he does not have family in Israel. This friend, Rafael, made Aliyah from Australia and is now in this elite unit, which is quite impressive. Anyway, his mom came in and surprised him when he finished the hike and for the ceremony so I thought it was so beautiful how powerful that must be for an olim (immigrant to Israel) and his mother.

It was a very interesting trip where I learned about Druze culture as well as more about Israeli culture by attending the paratrooper ceremony and understanding a cultural group that is an integral part of Israel as such a friend to Jews.